[andrew_drl]

My wife and I are rock climbers and we are looking for an effective carb and protein source that can provide enough energy for an all day climbing effort. Does anyone have experience with Genr8 Vitargo S2 as a carb source? Specifically, I want to know how fractionated barley amylopectin (vitargo s2), is superior to maltodextrin and dextrose as a carb source.

http://www.genr8speed.com/endurance/vitargo.php

Genr8 claims to move through the stomach more than twice as fast as the carbohydrates such as maltodextrin and sugars found in other sport drinks and powders. If that is true, would that be a significant advantage for us on our climbs?

Also, I would like to know if there are any other products out there that would meet our needs. I need some help interpreting the scientific ingredient lists and applying it to our needs.

Any insights, helpful advice, or experience with Genr8 Vitargo S2?



Background:

Our climbs in Yosemite last anywhere from 6 to 24 hours, but usually about 12 hours. We climb long routes that have many ropelengths. We alternate leading the pitches. So our energy output is in cycles of around 15 -45 minutes of hard climbing, followed by about the same amount of rest time while belaying the other. This energy output cycle is different from that of other athletes, such as weight lifters or triathletes, so I have a hard time finding information that applies to our situation.

We need an energy source to keep us going on these long climbs. We often lose our appetites and have a very hard time eating solid foods. We are both very skinny ectomorphs and have fast metabolisms, and very little stored body fat to use as an energy source.

We have used Gu energy gels with good success because we can eat them when we have lost our appetites during climbs. but at only 100 calories and 25g carbs per serving, it is difficult to carry and eat enough of them on a long climb.

We recently tried Endurox R4 carb protein formula. It has 270 calories per serving, 53g carbs, 13g protein. It contains maltodextrin, sucrose, whey protein concentrate, fructose, citric acid, and dextrose. It seemed to work great when we tried it last weekend, drinking it during our climb.

[Adam Dzsudzsak]

I'll try to help.

The Vitargo is great for spiking our insulin very quickly. It claims to do this faster than malto/dextrose. I'm not sure that's optimal for your scenario. In fact, I think it's best kept to the peri-workout window.

Perhaps you can try Workout Fuel by Biotest? They claim it provides energy for long bouts. But it is pricey.

How well does plain Gatorade mixed with protein work for ya?

[andrew_drl]

We have used gatoraide, but not mixed with protein powder. I don't know if we could drink enough of it to meet our needs though. A quart only has about 200 calories and 51 g. carbs, which is about 1/4 the amount of enduroxR4.

You say that Genr8 spikes insulin quickly. what does that mean? wouldn't that give us a sugar high with a crash afterward?

[Adam Dzsudzsak]

Originally Posted by andrew_drl

We have used gatoraide, but not mixed with protein powder. I don't know if we could drink enough of it to meet our needs though. A quart only has about 200 calories and 51 g. carbs, which is about 1/4 the amount of enduroxR4.

You say that Genr8 spikes insulin quickly. what does that mean? wouldn't that give us a sugar high with a crash afterward?

That's what that means. If it does what it claims to do that is (I believe it does). You could always try using Vitargo during your next climb - perhaps the sugar highs/lows wouldn't affect you that much since you're working hard (and you get long rests).

I'm just thinking it's not the best source for energy. You could effectively make your own Endurox drink by tossing in a few scoops of protein (1 scoop is about 120kcal) to the Gatorade.

Hope any of that helps. What do other rock climbers do? Is whole food not an option? It would take longer to digest, and therefore give you sustained energy levels to last through your climb.

[andrew_drl]

thanks for the info. I think I'll stick with Endurox for now.

Solid food is what I have always eaten, before I got on PN. I used to eat a lot of bagels, cheese, tuna, granola, and energy bars while climbing. But processed carbs and fatty cheese is not a very good source of energy, and after eating the great food in the PN cookbook, I can feel a difference when I eat poorly again.

I have been looking for solid foods that I could take on a climb, that will stay good without a cooler, and still taste good. we may try baked chicken with hummus, but I would be open to any other ideas.

[Adam Dzsudzsak]

Quick protein ideas -

Jerky (any kind really) and canned fish (tuna, sardines, salmon).

Nuts are a great source of fats, as well as seeds. I would think that a home-made protein bar would fare well, if it's only for a few hours it shouldn't go bad.

[bijagirl]

I use the focus energy (from theskinnywhey.com) + a trail mix including sacha inchi seeds for sure when I'm going on a long adventure. I also use the Vitargo S2 pre-workout because I like it pre-workout a lot better than maltodextrin. It's been clinically shown to have strong antioxidant bioactivities, but I don't get the long endurance energy from the S2 like I do from the focus.